Requirements For Making Champion Club Goats : A very good goat kid (wether or doe), A very good kid (boy or girl), good nutrition, clean water, lots of exercise, a few feeding and  fittiing tips , an abundance of patience, and a desire to learn, have fun, and work hard.

Buying Your Show Goat- Now you're ready to buy a show wether or doe for your 4-H and or F.F.A. project. Below are a few tips that will help you in selecting your meat goat project.  I have never seen the perfect structured animal, whether it be a goat, pig, steer, etc. , but  hopefully the information below will aid  you in your search for the best prospect to build with. Buy a goat that you like with the least faults you can find and build your show goat to the best of it's and your ability and you are  a winner in my opinion.

SELECTION   AND STRUCTURE-  Judges look for meat goat wethers that are well conditioned and gentle. In short, a goat that has been well conditioned, fed, and trained will have an advantage over the the rest of the ring. No matter how good the prospect you pick it takes exercise and proper nutrition to match your genetics to make a good meat goat show wether. A high performance race car must have high performance fuel to compete.
Look for the best show goat wether kid prospect that you can find, however, remember  the most expensive goat in the ring does not mean it is the best.  The key factors are length, height, depth, width, muscling and soundness (We like to throw a little color for eye appeal in the mix). 
   The goat should walk well moving smoothly and stand wide with a strong (straight top). Adequate, flat bone with a long hip from pin to hock is important. Keeping it simple you do not want a goat that is low to the ground so look for the long hip and legs. The goats rump, (the part above the tail), should slope gently instead of a sudden drop off. A higher tail setting usually comes with a good rump. 
   A large framed goat will be properly finished at a larger body weight than a small framed goat, therefore it is a common practice to select two different body types if feeding more than one show wether.  We definitely do not recommend purchasing or housing one goat by itself. We strongly suggest that if you do not want two quality show prospects that you either pen your goat with a less expensive goat or share your pen with a friends goat. A single Boer goat or Boer cross will usually not do well when kept by itself. I have seen full grown Boer Goats nearly grieve themselves to death by being penned alone. Goats are herd animals. 
 A goat likes to eat above its head first, shrubs second, and grass third. Having said this; we breed for tall frame goats with a long neck.  Neither a large goat or small is the best, but a well balanced goat to match its body type. Remember with goat show judging you are dealing with the human eye and preference, as  with all animals one judge will prefer a different type of animal than another.
   Goats usually loose there milk teeth from 10 to 12 months of age so be sure to select your wether goat to meet the show date requirements. Goats usually gain 2 to 3 lbs. per week, depending on the genetics, nutrition, etc.  While on the subject of nutrition I want to mention the importance of WATER, fresh clean water on a daily basis has a direct effect on the amount of feed a goat will eat.
   When selecting your show goat be sure to keep muscle in mind, you can build muscle by exercising your goat, however good genetics are an important factor. New born kid goats are usually fat and cute from the does milk fat. You must learn to look past cute and make your selection on quality. Ask the breeder about the bloodline and the parents.  Look for a long ,deep muscled rump that is not to steep, long firm top that is naturally firm and hard when touched and stifle muscle on the front legs.  Remember the goat will get better with feed and exercise but you need something to start with. You want width through the chest floor. A large head is not important, we like to breed for a smaller head, long neck with the neck connecting just over the shoulders with a smooth flow from the neck, to shoulders, to the rib cage (this is called rack shape). While you do not want a lot of cover (excessive skin) on your goat, you want to select for an adequate amount of room around the goats heart girth (area just behind the front shoulders).
   We touched on the subject of eye appeal earlier.  A meat goat show wether that has vigor has an advantage. A good way to explain vigor is a goat that is proud to be a goat. A goat that holds it's head up, stands wide, correct and tall, with a touch of color will stand out in the crowd (we do not recommend sacrificing color for quality). As stated before different judges will prefer one body style over another, especially in the early phases of the goat show wether infancy. Having said this; find a goat that you like, that is structurally correct and start building.
Housing you goat: Some type of housing to keep your animals comfortable in extreme weather is a must. A building facing the South will help with the cold north wind in the winter and provide shade in the summer. Check the bedding periodically, urine soaked hay will create ammonia, this can be a contributor for causing pneumonia. You may find your goat will not spend a lot of time underneath a shelter, except for extreme weather conditions.

FEEDING YOUR GOAT: If I have heard it once I have heard it a thousand times "A Goat will eat anything", well maybe after about two weeks ! So would anything else. Goats are PICKY EATERS. When feeding a small number of goats it is probably best to purchase a commercial feed prepared especially for show goats unless you have or know someone who has the knowledge to prepare the correct feed type for maximum performance. I have tested several goat feeds and watched as others fed particular brands of feed. The two best performers I know of currently are Mooremans "Dynamo" and Surefed Feeds "N-Timidator". I do not receive any endorsements from these feed companies and sure there are other quality show goat feeds as well. I recommend keeping the feeder off the ground, just above  nose level to train your goat to keep it's head up, this will also work muscles in the rump and hind legs. Keeping the feed off the ground will also aid in the prevention of parasites. You can start your goat with a limited amount of Alfalfa hay but, be very careful in the latter stages of feeding; Alfalfa can and will cause a large stomach, not a good thing for show goats and most show goat feeds contain Alfalfa pellets. Many goats can be self fed at all times however, some goats will become to fat. You must monitor fat build up on your goat and adjust feed and exercise accordingly. From time to time pinch the skin on the goats side and top, if you pull up loose skin your goat is not conditiioned properly and most likely needs exercise.  Practice is the best teacher on the fitting of your show goat, ask for help. Some are born with a natural eye to know exactly when to make feed changes others have to work at it a bit,  most anyone can do it with practice, work, and by asking questions. Nutrition and exercise are probably the two most important controllable factors in fitting your show goat. You can ad meat and muscle over the top, rump, and rack by feeding, at the same time you want to keep the fat off. The best way is to feed, exercise, feed, exercise. I would like to see a penny bounce off the top of a finished goat that is ready for the show ring. Be especially careful on the amount of feed and water given to your goats on the day before and on show day. You do not want a large belly on your goat when entering the show ring. It is usually best to feed only a very small portion on these days (hand full). The same with water. Many times a goat will experience "Melt Down"  when under stress such as traveling to goat shows. Goat drench will help with the melt down, about 10 to 12 cc's three times a day, just before leaving and during a show. Some use Enfamil to help prevent melt down, if you do use only the Vanilla flavored Enfamil. 
    We also are firm beleivers in protein blocks, this ensures that goats get the copper, minerals, protein, etc.; they need for maximum performance.
NOTE: If you have sheep in the same pen do not use the goat protein block, rather use a general purpose or sheep block with a lower copper content. To much copper will kill sheep.

NOTE:   Goats can be very sensitive to sudden feed changes. When making dramatic changes in the ration do it slowly. Be especially cautious not to feed moldy hay or other feed stuff products that are subject to mold such as molasses. Moldy feeds can cause serious illness even death to sheep and goats. 

Exercising your goat:  Goats, especially young goats, like to entertain themselves. They are "show-offs" . If you give your show goats a large pen or fenced area they will do a great deal of exercise on there own. A pen on a hilly area is especially good, you can build objects for your goats to climb on, but be careful not to create a hazard that will cause an injury, I prefer to use a hay pile or dirt mound, nothing to sharp,hard,or high off the ground. You will still need to walk your goat with a lead or halter to get it used to showing. The amount of exercise your show goat will need depends on the body fat and or muscle tone. A loose skinned and soft topped show goat wether will need a lot of exercise and proper feed. Start working with your goat early. As you feed the goat check for loose skin in the hip and top areas. When body fat builds up you can run the goat to decrease body fat and build muscle. Run the goat for short periods of time, till the goat starts to breath hard. Do not over do it, but at the same time you want to build muscle. Exercise your goat as you would train for being a sprinter, not a long distance runner.  Long distance runners are usually build for endurance with a different muscle type, sprinters have muscle expression because of short burst and weight training. You can use a slope or tread mill for the weight training.

Halter Breaking you show goat:  Many have place a halter on a goat for the first time and have said; "What have I gotten myself into NOW" . Some goats are easy to train and others can be quite stubborn (stubborn can be an understatement). Every goat has a different personality and every goat can be trained a little different. When introducing yourself for the first time some find it beneficial to just sit in a small pen with your goat so you can get used to each other. Goats are shown with a halter, collar, or show chain. After you get used to each other place a halter on your goat and tie it someplace secure. Do not leave your goat alone the first time, to many things can go wrong which can frighten your goat making it harder the next time. After your goat gets used to the halter and becomes gentle, you can teach it to lead. A helper in the back of the goat can be a real asset! A word of advice, if you're in the back you may not want to be wearing your best clothes.  Keep the goats front shoulder even with your leg, hence the goats head should be in front of your body. Train your goat to keep it's head up while walking.  Next, set up your goat. Be patient, set up the front legs first, then place the hind legs with the body straight and the head in a high, proud position. (Remember? A goat that's proud to be a goat), the show ring is where it pays off. keep practicing every chance you get. You may only have a few seconds once you get into the show ring with a judge. Practice-practice-practice !!!

De horning your Wether Goat: Some states and or shows require your show wether goat to be polled or de horned.  In Oklahoma, in some shows, you currently must have your wether dis-budded, mainly for the safety of show ring exhibitors, other shows now require that the end of the horn be tipped and the edges rounded off. I prefer to just tip the horn and leave the animal in it's natural state as much as possible. Some people say that a goats horns  actually act as a built in air conditioner, as the blood flows through the horn it cools the goat much like a radiator on a vehicle.  
   It is usually not required to de horn does. It's best to de horn wethers at about 10 days of age. Most use horn burners, applying even pressure until the skin and hair around the horn turns a dark tan color, this should kill the nerves supplying blood flow to the horns stopping growth, this is not a pleasant experience. The other process is to clean the horn area and apply a de horning acid on the top of the bud. Read directions carefully when applying the acid. Some horns are stubborn, we have at times used both methods mentioned above, but again my favorite and most humane is to simply flatten the ends of the horns, this can be done easily with a hack saw or if you have an electric hoof grinder it's a breeze.  

Hoof Trimming your goat: Trim your goats feet about every 4-6 weeks and about two weeks prior to showing. When trimming cut the excess hoof that's found on the outside edge. Do not be afraid, just do not go deeper than the solid part of the foot or the dark line on the hoof.  Foot rot  is another subject but if your goat develops treat by soaking the foot in a zinc sulfate foot bath and iodine.

Shearing you show goats:    A word of advise; you will have far better success shearing your goat if you give it a bath and blow dry before shearing, this will save on blades, time, and your goat will look better. Be sure and check on the rules for shearing in your area or show you are attending, different areas differ to the amount of cover that can be left on a goat. Shear your goat according to the rules at least 1 week to 10 days prior to the goat show. This will give enough time for clipper tracks to smooth out. Electric clippers with a 20-23 tooth comb and a 4 point cutter is the tool of choice for most handlers. Shear parallel  to the length of the body rather than vertically. Most bob the end of the goats tail. If available small clippers can be useful when trimming around the eyes, ears, and other delicate areas of your goat.  A good bath and blow dryer before show time is recommended.  
  
The Day Before Showing:   Remember to limit the amount of feed and water just prior to show day in order  to keep your animals stomach from bulging.
Many find it beneficial to usa a goat drench the night before show day, the morning of the show, and the remainder of the time your goat is away from home to prevent burn down.  Liquid goat drench, enfamil, and topping off the feed with corn syrup a few days prior to show day helps prevent melt down and aids in keeping your goat looking fresh.

Show Time:    Everything you have done from selection to training is for the Show Ring. Beside a well prepared goat you need to exhibit superior showman ship.  Stay relaxed but stay focused at all times and "NEVER STOP SHOWING YOUR GOAT UNTIL THE RIBBONS ARE AWARDED".  Many ribbons have been won by out showing the competition. Showmanship is very important. Be familiar with the show ring, know where the corners are. Upon entering the ring watch the judge for directions. If there's no ring stewards to line up the goats find a spot where your goat will  look it's best, show your goats strong point to get the judges attention. Set your goat up, make sure the legs are set properly, and  keep a straight line with the goats body, neck, and head. Stay alert at all times with one eye on the judge, knowing where the judge is at all times. Do not worry or look around at the audience, stay focused on showing your goat. Be careful not to block the judges view with your body, keep your goat between you and the judge. After handling your goat the judge usually steps back, remember to keep the goats head up and maintain a straight line with the body, neck, and head. If your goat is not selected in the first round keep showing, remember, never stop showing.  If your goat is selected in the first line remain calm and follow the ring stewards direction moving at a steady moderate pace.  Once again, Never Stop Showing your goat until the ribbons are awarded. Practice every chance you get.


                                                GOAT HEALTH
                                  The most common illnesses among goats
PARASITES:  Parasite (worm) control in goats is important. Check the goats gums at least once per month.  Gums that are pink and healthy usually means your goat is free of worms or at least has a low count. A word of advice, take it for granted that your goat has a worm count because it probably has, this way of thinking will keep you on your toes, constantly  checking your goat for parasites. Goats with white gums usually means your animal needs to be wormed a.s.a.p. ; we worm every 2 to 3 months to break and keep the worm cycle under control in tight pen environment. We also check goats on an individual basis to manage individual animals to prevent a herd resistance to parasites. Under pasture conditions parasite control is and can be handled in a different manner with pasture rotation, etc.   A goat with stomach worms will usually go off feed or create a lump on the neck underneath the jaw, however a goat can die from worms without giving any sign of illness.  Be alert for signs of diarrhea, this is also a tattle tale sign of worms. Check underneath the tail for extra white skin pigmentation to much white coloring in the skin is a sign of worms.  Physically check your goat for external parasites, especially after a show or when exposed to other animals. A goat with bottle jaw has a very high worm count and needs to be medicated immediately. Another way to check for worms is underneath the eyelid, if the eyelid is white and pale you have a high worm count, the pinker or more reddish color the lower the worm count. By looking behind the eye lid and gums goats can be individually identified and wormed separately.
Anthelmintics (wormer's) and there use:  Can be researched from our goat links page


Bottle Jaw: A lump forms on the goats jaw or upper neck. Caused by blood sucking worms. The wormer used is most likely not strong enough. When signs of bottle jaw appear you must use a strong wormer immediately, again in 11 days to break the cyle. Also administer goat drench to the animal for a couple of days, this will aid in replacing the vitamin A needed. In cases where the lump has been visible for a few days it is usually best to give a round of penicillin or other antibiotic to help in the recover process.
Read more about goat parasites on our raising Boer Goats page.

Enterotoxemia: A major cause in young goat death is enterotoxemia, A.K.A. (overeating disease).  Afflicted animals seldom show signs of illness and the disease is usually fatal ! The disease is caused by a clostridial organism normally present in the intestine found in most goats. Goats that have their feed changed rapidly or consume large amounts of grain are subject to enterotoxemia types C and D.  Changes in feed can create a powerful toxin that can cause death within hours. The best prevention is to vaccinate immediately after you purchase your goat. At Double G Boers we vaccinate at two weeks of age and give a booster at 30 days. The adult goats are also given a booster every six months. 

Urinary Calculi: Urinary calculi is a metabolic disease found in wethers and bucks (Male Goats). It is caused by a formation of calculi or stones in the urinary tract. It is very much like kidney stones. The first sign of calculi is a goats inability to pass urine. The goat will be restless, kick at it's stomach and continue to try and keep urinating. The common cause of calculi build up with wethers is feed rations with high phosphorus (grains). A successful prevention is to provide a 2:1 calcium:phosphorus ratio in the ration and by adding 10 to 15 pounds of ammonian chloride per ton of feed. When feeding commercial feeds check the label to make sure it is medicated.  Again, provide plenty of fresh clean water. 

Soremouth: Soremouth is a contagious viral disease that causes the build up of scabs on the lips and around the mouth of goats. The virus can effect humans, take precaution to wash hands after handling goats with soremouth. Iodine can be rubbed on the lesions after the scabs are removed and this will help dry the area and reduce infection. Their is a vaccination but we cannot recommend it as a breeder because it is a live virus vaccine. Soremouth will run it's course in  a goat or group of goats in a couple of weeks. We a liken sore mouth in goats somewhat like pinkeye in cattle, however pinkeye in goats is a different story. 

Pinkeye: Excessive watering  and cloudiness in the goat eyes. Dusty pens and a great deal of exposure to sunlight can contribute to the onset of pinkeye in goats. There are several medications on the market to treat the disease in goats. Diagnosed and treated early pinkeye should be of little threat to your goat. Where many ignore pink eye in cattle, I do not recommend ignoring this disease in goats, it can cause blindness if untreated. 

We hope this page helps, if we can ever be of assistance please let us know by email (info@showgoats.net) or phone. We wish to thank you in advance for taking the time to visit our web-site. 

Best Regards,

Wayne and Mary Glasgow
Double G Boers
Cell: 405-248-2600
                                                                                                Goats For Sale